カテゴリー別アーカイブ: style

Some years ago a series of strange yet unrelated events led me to undertake a study of the colonial era in Massachusetts and the history of the town in which I live. As time passed, two questions came to mind: 1) We know about the Pilgrims and Puritans, but where did all the Indians go? and 2) Among that remnant of Native Americans who have somehow managed to survive into the present era, how can tribal communities thrive while reconciling themselves to the monolithic power of contemporary American civilization?

Question 1 is all too easy to answer and all too sad to contemplate; Question 2 eluded me for many years. That it has been answered, if only in the most unexpected sort of way, is as much a comment on the ambiguity inherent in any complex question as the daunting challenge of overturning centuries of repression and racial hatred directed against indigenous peoples. That such questions continue to run in parallel with “the power and the glory” theories of American history, which have merit in their own terms, is a puzzle I will not attempt to solve here.

High-fashion dresses, beaded boots and luxurious accessories may seem to pale in contrast to such concerns, but to my surprise and delight I found in them my answer when I recently attended an exhibition entitled “Native Fashion Now – North American Indian Style” at Salem’s Peabody Essex Museum. Curated by Karen Kramer, a brilliant exponent of indigenous art, and a team of dedicated colleagues, the exhibit is a five-star event.

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What Native America appears to be about today, if what I saw in Salem is representative, is what it has always been doing: imagining a unique future for itself based on its deepest and most profound spiritual and material resources. Self-reliance, a willingness to adopt new ways, rich wellsprings of community and most of all a totally hip, wildly imaginative artistic sensibility are overcoming what murderous Europeans, a brutally repressive federal government, competing tribal interests, the bland insensibility of mass media and the mindless conformity of commercialization have not and never will achieve. In their place I encountered a powerful fusion of art and craft that is nothing short of transformative.

I need issue no spoiler alert in saying what you will see, if you go to this exhibition, is a swirl of iconic symbols, fine fabrics, beaten silver, precious stones and even colorized sneakers. I takes high fashion, stands it on its head, shakes it up and adds such unexpected embellishments as elk antler and stingray skin to clothing ensembles and fashion accessories so colorful and iconic as to meet the test of any Paris runway show, presidential state occasion, high society charity ball, rapper’s act or skateboarder ramp routine.

Clothing, along with food gathering and kinship ties, once was life itself to Native America. A first line of environmental defense against heat, cold and predators, clothing lent prestige and power to its powwows and chiefs. So it is hardly an accident that clothing should now become a dynamic, expressive medium for contemporary Native American fashion designers. Cultural persistence has paid off quite well here, one might say.

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Deep décolletage was the look of the night at the first awards-show red carpet of the new year, with celebrities at the 73rd Golden Globes on Sunday sporting necklines that plunged lower than the Chinese stock market.

The look could be seen in “Blindspot” actress Jaimie Alexander’s green gown by Genny, Heidi Klum’s flapper-fringe number by Marchesa, “Chicago P.D.” star Sophia Bush’s otherwise-understated little black bridesmaids dresses sydney by Narciso Rodriguez and the blue strapless gown from the pre-fall 2016 Reem Acra collection worn by “Downton Abbey’s” Joanne Froggatt.

Katy Perry, a stunner in a rose pink Prada gown with a plunging — but comparatively safe — neckline, managed to draw even more attention to the trend by pointing to her bosom and remarking to red-carpet commentator Ryan Seacrest that she “brought the globes.”

Olivia Wilde wore a custom Michael Kors Collection wine-colored silk crepe halter gown with sequin embellishments that made her a two-fer in the trend department: The night’s other big theme was a surfeit of sequins, which came down the carpet with the festive feel of a freshly uncorked Jeroboam of bubbly.

Among the standouts of the evening’s sparkle posse were nominee Regina King (“American Crime”) in a sleeveless gold metallic floral sequin dress by Krikor Jabotian accessorized with a regal-looking cape, nominee Uzo Aduba (“Orange Is the New Black”) in a sparkly gown from the Talbot Runhof Resort 2016 collection and Julianne Moore in a midnight-blue, sequin-covered, draped-back dress by her awards-show date Tom Ford. Brie Larson’s custom gold gown from the Calvin Klein collection was embellished with so much metal, she likened the dress to “wearing Joan of Arc armor.”

Kate Hudson wore a custom beaded crepe bandeau-top gown from the Michael Kors collection, but it was another Kate — last name Bosworth — who set the sequin bar even before she’d left the limousine. Bosworth posted photos of her pink sequin Dolce & Gabbana gown to social media in advance of her arrival, and the confection looked like a wearable glass of pink Champagne.

Bosworth’s strapless gown also keyed into one of the smaller trends of the night: the bare and off-the-shoulder looks sported by the likes of Kate Winslet in a Ralph Lauren Collection royal blue silk crepe crisscross halter budget wedding dresses, Lady Gaga in a custom black Atelier Versace gown with exaggerated hips and a sweetheart neckline, Gina Rodriguez in a blue Zac Posen gown and Amy Schumer in a black and white color-blocked Prabal Gurung gown that was also notable for the fact that it had something that’s often in short supply on the red carpet: pockets.

The Rings of Love Bridal Show is back again Sunday at the Carl Perkins Civic Center, bringing a wonderland of wedding ideas and necessities to brides and grooms to be. There are more venues and vendors than ever before.

“We’ve had hundreds of brides come in every year,” said Ashley Thomas, business manager and event coordinator at Forever Communications. “They come in and look for gowns and registries and food and entertainment, venues, honeymoon information, makeup, wedding planners, jewelers, rentals, photography — they can get pretty much everything they need at the bridal show. They can talk to the vendors, ask their questions, and watch the show.”

Over 500 brides and their guests attended the area’s longest-running bridal show last year, taking advantage of the best wedding ideas West Tennessee has to offer, according to a news release.

“The show is all about local businesses that are based in West Tennessee,” said Thomas. “We do get some vendors from Memphis and sometimes Nashville, but most of them are local, easy to get to, places that are here in town.”

For any future grooms who make the trip to the bridal show, the groom’s room is back again this year to offer a space where they can take a break from shopping, relax and watch football.

Also back is the show’s most popular event, the fashion show.

“We have a fashion show every year,” said Thomas, “where brides can actually see different bridal gowns and bridesmaid dresses and tuxes and even junior bridesmaid and ring bearer outfits too. The fashion show is what everyone looks forward to. It’s always at the end of the show and it’s always fun and entertaining and it’s a great way to look for your perfect gown without having to actually go shopping.”

Beginning on the main stage at 4 p.m., this year’s fashion show is coordinated by Jenna King of My Best Friend Jenna, who is looking forward to showing off the hottest upcoming trends of 2016.

“There are new dress styles that come out each year and there are a lot of new looks this year for brides to get excited about that consist of sparkles and a lot of Pinterest inspiration,” King said. “Pinterest is a great inspiration for all brides, so there is going to be a lot of Pinterest-inspired ideas. But it’s all the latest 2016 looks in both dresses and tuxedos.”

One trend to look for involves lots of sparkles.

“A lot of the bridesmaid dresses have more sparkle this year,” King said. “We have a collection at my store that has a lot of sparkle. I’ll be showcasing a matte sequin collection that has been very popular this year.”

Yet another trend involves setting-specific wedding wear.

King said another trend this year is to have a rehearsal dinner dress as well as a second dress for the wedding day. “One to change into at the reception to be able to enjoy the evening with dancing and all and not have to be stuck in your wedding gown all night if it’s one that’s difficult to dance in, so we’re showcasing a lot of reception dresses.”

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The minimalist trend – and its “less is more mantra” – defined trends in 2015, with muted color patterns, clean lines and simple shapes. Consider that a palate cleanser for what’s to come in 2016.

Runways previewing 2016 collections have dropped some not-so-subtle hints that 2016 styles will be big and bold, albeit feminine. Traditional springtime English garden florals will get juxtaposed with black lace for a grunge edge. Louis Vuitton and Balmain shows are ruffling fashion, with the lady-like detailing proving popular on cheap wedding dresses and blouses and skirts.

Here’s a preview of 6 trends in store for 2016.

BOLD STRIPES

Stripes are a perennial fashion trend. But the more common dainty Breton stripes we see appear in spring are being usurped by wide, colorful stripes. This structured ponte top has nautical navy stripes that are subtle in scale, but is popped with wider ribbons of lime for a fresh take on the striped shirt staple.

RUFFLE UP YOUR WARDROBE

From bold, all-over flamenco ruffles on tea length wedding dresses to subtle ruffles at hemlines, the feminine detail is a designer favorite for 2016. We love how the soft ruffles on the sleeve and at the hemline transform this shift dress into a unique, statement piece that comes in sapphire, pine or black.

JEWELRY THAT MAKES A STATEMENT

A statement necklace has the superpower ability to transform an entire jeans-and-T-shirt outfit or add a “wow” factor to a shift dress. Anthropologie is one of our favorite places to go shopping for unique, statement pieces. We’re loving the Bainbridge Layer Necklace with mixed textures and four strands of beads that harmoniously blend mixed metals, blue hues and cream, marble-like stones.

NEAT PLEATS

A little bit preppy, dainty, knife pleats are re-emerging for 2016. Loft has a darling take on the trend with a pleated flippy dress in burgundy with long sleeves and a flattering drop waist. For a fashion-forward combo, combine burgundy with a bold, azure blue accessory for an unexpected color palette.

MARLED KNITS

Designers like Jason Wu and Michael Kors have been previewing pretty marled knits in their 2016 collections. Start the New Year off in style with a marled knit sweater dress that’s classic, but chic. Polish off the look with heeled booties and a jolt of color – like a burgundy purse and swipe of lipstick.

MOODY FLORALS

Floral patterns blossom every spring. This year, they are less soft, more moody. Find delicate florals mixed with lace details on blouses and dark backgrounds on dresses. Have year-round flower power in your wardrobe with the graphic floral hues set on a black canvas with this short-sleeve floral sheath dress. Wear with a black moto jacket to give it extra edge.

For some Boxing Day means eating leftover ham and friendly games of backyard cricket. For others it’s a regulated bloodsport where ruthlessness is the only option. By that we mean the annual Boxing Day sales, which can have the tendency to turn even the mildest of people into a frenzied monster. And it’s easy to understand why it happens. Sales tend to whip up strong reactions – from fear of missing out to uber competitiveness – all of which can lead to making poor decisions. That purple bejewelled fedora at 50 per cent off might seem like a good idea at the time, but mostly, well, it’s not.

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To help with this we’ve pulled together the ultimate ELLE girl guide to surviving – and thriving – the summer sale season.

DO YOUR RESEARCH

Take cues from fashion girls who will happily spend hours trawling through runway shows, street style pics and shopping websites to hone in on what you really love, where to buy it and where you’re going to get the best price. This includes shopping like a ninja online – this includes making wish lists on your favourite stores and following your favourite brands on social media to get a heads up on upcoming sales and offers .

DO A STOCKTAKE

This is important. Take a long, hard look at your wardrobe and figure out what you actually need – remember a bargain isn’t really a bargain if you didn’t either need or absolutely love it. Do you have ten striped shirts but only one pair of jeans? Need a dress for your cousin’s wedding next year? This is a great time to plug the holes in your wardrobe.

BUY THE BASICS

Make like ELLE fashion news coordinator Claudia Jukic and stock up on the everyday items that you’ll use over and over, but don’t necessarily love spending loads of money on.“I always buy swimwear on sale – you can find cute ‘kinis and it feels better to spend less money on something with very little fabric … ditto lingerie,” she says.

LOOK FOR CLASSIC ITEMS THAT WON’T DATE

You can’t go wrong with classic, non-trend driven items that you will wear for years to come. Look for things like trench coats, crisp white shirts and tailored trousers. As Dee Jenner, ELLE style editor says of her sales strategy,“I try not to impulse buy. Things like cashmere, coats and a great bag are always going to be a good investment so I know I’m making the right decision.”

ON THE OTHER HAND, YOU CAN ALSO USE THE SALES AS THE CHANCE TO BUY SOMETHING YOU WOULDN’T NORMALLY

We don’t mean somethingridiculous,but if you were keen try a pair of fur lined shoes or a tutu during the year but couldn’t quite stump up the cash for something so … dramatic… and you spot them on sale, this is your moment. Or at least to challenge yourself a little, sartorially speaking. As ELLE digital contributor Ruby Jones says,

“I usually try to see them as an opportunity to buy my favourite item in a seasonal colour I would NEVER usually choose, this way I’m also encouraged to wear more colour.

“For example, last year [I saw] a pair of orange suede Altuzarra heels on sale for like $300 bucks. Obviously I bought them and now I proudly strut around in orange suede heels that are amazing. “

TAKE A FRIEND WHOSE OPINION YOU TRUST

The kind of friend who will tell you to put the unflattering (but such a bargain!) culottes down, and is not the kind of enabling friend that will encourage you to spend a week’s rent on a pair of shoes.

MAKE FRIENDS WITH THE SALES ASSISTANTS

Obviously this takes some pre-sales ground work, but being on friendly terms with the staff in your favourite stores can go a long way toward getting first dibs on the good stuff or at least an honest opinion.

LISTEN TO YOUR GUT INSTINCT

Try and remain calm in the face of a rack of half-off shoes and think about what you really want to buy, and what will inevitably be a regrettable decision. Your gut instinct will tell you to put down the drop crotch, acid wash, asymmetrical pants. You should listen to it.

EAT A GOOD BREAKFAST

A lot of bad decisions could be avoided had you had you eaten a decent breakfast beforehand. Hangry is not a happy place for shoppers.

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The world of fashion is wonderfully dynamic. Trends sometimes look forward to the future, while at times they tend to go back in the past. Since last year the sartorial universe has been taking a walk down memory lane. The 90s was a defining era for fashion and makeup. It defied preconceived notions, deconstructed age-old ideas and set new trends that went down in history.

It was also the era the “supers” came into being. Models like Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Helena Christensen and Naomi Campbell pushed every boundary imaginable with their larger-than-life personalities and jobs. These women wore makeup and clothes like nobody did before and the tabloids exploded with details over their lives, loves and lusts!

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With their big, bouncy hair, velvety skin and matte lips they set trends that had women over the world clamouring to attain their secrets. The exaggerated, over the top looks from the 80s were discarded readily in favour of such sophisticated, chic trends. Moreover, actresses like Brooke Shields, Julia Roberts, Cameron Diaz and others encouraged women to be comfortable in their own skin and let their natural beauty shine through. It was truly a significant time, which is why designers and makeup artists around the world are taking a leaf out of those books this year.

In terms of makeup, 90s looks were all about pared down, velvety skin with simple eyes and smooth, matte lips in neutral, earthy shades. The skin is luminous but not shiny, free of blemishes and spots. To achieve it, a lightweight foundation that has no shimmer is paramount, as is a concealer. This must be set nicely with powder that again has no shimmer. The final effect has to be velvety and shine-free.

Eyebrows should be neatly groomed and filled lightly with brow powder, nothing too harsh. Eyes should be contoured softly with matte shadows in earthy shades such as taupe, light sienna and brown. A thin line of eyeliner that has been smudged will define the eyes, as will a soft swipe of mascara. Warm, earthy shades such as peach or apricot blushed on the apples of the cheeks add colour to the skin.

For lips, matte lip colours in earthy shades such as taupe, mocha and deep, rich shades of red and maroon will bring the face together. The 90s era has also been rather influential in the fashion world this year. Midi skirts are very in and look chic when worn with short-sleeved shirts. Floral prints are equally hot and shirts, blouses and dresses look beautiful and fresh. Chambray shirts, which were very popular back then are hot again. Tights, which were absolute essentials, are now en vogue . All of these trends are very practical and can be attained by anyone. So go on, try out these trends and get in touch with your inner diva 90s style!

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