DESIGNER Paul Vasileff was just 16 when he started his own label, Paolo Sebastian.
Now 25, the young Adelaide man is killing it in the fashion arena, with his designs being worn by the Kardashians, Giuliana Rancic and brides all around the world.
The down-to- earth designer took some time out ahead of the launch of his new couture collection, The Nightingale, to speak with Sophie Perri at his new design house on Gouger St.
How many wedding dresses are you working on?
We’re generally working on 50 to 100 clients at a time.
Do you have to turn people away?
We were, but since we have moved here (into the bigger space), we haven’t had to. Where we were in Torrensville was really limited.
Have you ever ruined a dress — have you stepped on it, or spilt coffee on it?
I don’t drink coffee first-up but we’ve got a strict no-food rule. I did ruin a pair of pants I made for myself once. I accidentally cut them at the back with the scissors.
Would you ever make menswear?
I used to, but menswear is surprisingly a lot harder than womenswear … technically and also style-wise. Because men’s clothes are so basic, the lines have to be perfect and if I do something I want it to be 100 per cent. To do an old-school tailored suit by hand takes a lot of time and dedication and patience.
When a celebrity is photographed wearing one of your designs, what happens afterwards?
We get inundated with calls for the dress. People will either ask, “where is this available, or, can I order one?’’ Some people will want it in different colours, or want it in white as a wedding dress.
What was it like when you dressed Carrie Bickmore for the Logies, were you watching the red carpet from home?
That year I went over and helped dress her and all of that … I think last year we had five girls we dressed so we had to do the rounds. They all get dressed at the same time so it’s like you have to be in five places at once. They all book out the Crown so you’re in the same complex but you’re running from one end of the building, going up and down floors. Sara (Paul’s media co-ordinator) and I were running from pillar to post, and I’m wearing a suit and sweating. I think I got vertigo because I was going from ground to top floor in a few seconds and bolting out.
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Would you open a store overseas?
We actually just signed up with Harvey Nichols Kuwait just out of Dubai, which is really exciting. And New York we are stocked in so we are looking to sign with a few stockists there. But long term down the track I would love to have a store in Paris or somewhere like that. That would be amazing.
Is that the ultimate dream?
Yeah. It’s kind of hard to think about that at the moment because there’s just so many things going on and it gives me a headache thinking about all the work that goes into that, but ultimately that’s the dream, to have something in Paris or Milan.
What are you thinking about when your head hits the pillow?
It’s crazy, it’s like, ‘go to sleep, don’t even think about what you have to do’. There’s so many things in one day that will go through my mind — I’m designing, I’m meeting with clients, my head has to be around all the dresses we’re making, and we’re a staff of 12 now so I need to know what everyone is doing. Plus I’m constantly trying to think of ideas for other collections and all of that.
When do you wake up?
On an average day I get up at 7am and go to the gym and get to work at about 10.30am but for example on Sunday night I was here until 2.30 in the morning.
What were you doing?
Drawing. Inspiration hit so I had to take it when it came and just go with it.
You learned about fashion from your nonna?
Both of my grandmothers were sewers, not professionally, but were very good at it. My dad’s mum passed away when I was six months old so unfortunately I never got to really meet her but my mum’s mum has always sewn since I can remember, and she looks at it as an art form which is how I treat it.
She must be proud.
Every time I’m in the paper she keeps it and calls me to tell me. My family and friends have been there for me the whole time. That’s something that’s really important to me and that’s why I’ve chosen to stay in Adelaide, because I can be around them and have that support. When I lived in Italy so many amazing things happened to me but most of the time I was by myself — and who do you get to share that with?
When you think about what you were like when you started this at 16, to how you are now, how different are you — what have you learned about business?
Oh, so much. When I started I had no idea what I was doing, I was still in school. I literally just wanted to start a fashion business and my own label. I was really lucky with the support I got from family and friends. I had that goal in sight and I still have that same goal in sight. At the end of the day I just wanted to make people feel special in the dresses I made. And I love making those statement pieces that when girls it put on, they have that Cinderella moment and I love being able to do that. I can’t describe what that feeling is but it’s really special. And that’s just how I run my business, with heart. That’s the basis of how I’ve run my business over the past eight years. Every decision that I have to make is made by instinct and by gut.
Having great success at a young age is something that could go to your head. Have you ever caught yourself having a diva moment?
We joke about that. That’s not me and I think if it was and I started being that way I would get cut down pretty quickly by my friends and family. At the end of the day they’re just dresses, I’m not curing cancer or anything like that. I don’t think anyone really has the right to be a diva … I think everyone should treat others the way they want to be treated. Respect is a big thing for me and has been since I was little. But yeah, we do joke about being diva-ish at work, I have fake tantrums and demand a coffee or a juice from one of the girls.
Are you an organised person? Do you make lists?
No (laughs) I’m a creative person so by nature I’m not organised. But I am in my own way, if that makes sense. I’m not a list person. I have a small list on my phone but that’s it. It’s harder now, but back when I first started I never had to write anything down. I’m getting a bit older and not as alert …(laughs) Seriously when I was younger I used to be able to work until 3am and get up for school the next morning.
How did you deal with that?
I was fine. I just loved it so much it didn’t bother me. Some classes I do remember getting told off for falling asleep but I think that was the class.
Do you get stressed?
I don’t really lose my head or get stressed too much because my mentality is, at the end of the day, the job has to get done, whether you stress about it or shut up and do it. Don’t get me wrong, there have been times where everything has fallen to pieces but you can’t sit and cry about it, and I don’t cry, I’m not a crier. Tear ducts don’t work! If you’re the type of person who does cry it’s probably the wrong job for you, because you’ll be crying a lot.
Do you get recognised a lot?
Yes. And it’s funny every time. I still don’t believe that it happens. People are lovely, some people want a photo, some just say ‘hey’ … It happens on Saturday nights. Then my friends are stupid and whisper to people, ‘do you know that’s Paolo Sebastian over there?’. It’s mainly when I’m out with the boys from school. I don’t really notice most of the time. It’s my friends who will say, those people over there are staring.
Does it unsettle you?
It does get a little unsettling when they just stare, I prefer it when people come up and say hello so I know what they’re looking at me for, because sometimes I get selfconscious and think, ‘is there something on my face?’.
Do you have a big wardrobe?
Huge.
How big?
There’s a thing in my room I call clothing mountain.
Sounds small.
It’s all clean clothes, it’s just there’s nowhere for them to go. My whole life I’ve bought items that are good quality and I have things from when I was 16 that still fit me and still look brand new because I take care of everything. Whenever I wear my trench coat I bring the little Burberry bag with me in the car (laughs).
What’s the last thing you splurged on?
I always splurge on food. Whenever I’ve had a busy day at work and I think, yeah we did some good work today, I’ll go walk to the markets and get some cake. I’ve just discovered Lucia’s which I really love.
Do you still live with your family?
Yeah. I ain’t moving out (laughs).
What do you do at home?
At the moment I haven’t been able to do anything for ages but I normally just hang out, watch TV if I get time … eat dinner, get changed into my pyjamas and go to bed. Or I’ll go for a walk, I’m lucky that three of my best friends live in the same street, so we just catch up. I think a lot of people expect me to do something special but mostly it’s getting food. I’m mostly just eating.
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